Raleigh Drywall Contractor.

We've seen it all, from doorknob holes to towel-bar anchors that ripped out, moving-day dents, old thermostat cutouts, and nail pops in Raleigh's '90s and 2000s builds as framing dries and moves.

We cut damage back to solid board, patch with real backing so it never flexes or cracks again, then feather wide and match your texture. We also regularly do this for move-out repairs, pre-listing touch-ups. We batch small repairs in one visit, which keeps them quick for us and fairly priced for you.

• Hole in the wall repair with solid backing, from doorknobs to full punch-throughs
• Drywall crack repair re-taped at the seam, so settling cracks don't come back
• Nail pop repair secured with screws, not just spackled over
• Wall patching before you sell, list, or hand back a rental deposit

Sagging sheetrock, cracks along the seams, a stain from an old leak, or the crack where a top-floor ceiling meets the wall every winter. That last one is truss uplift, and North Raleigh is full of it. Ceiling work is heavier and messier than wall repair, which is why a lot of handymen pass on it. But we do this work every week.

We contain the room, cut out the bad section, hang new board, and blend the finish into the rest of the ceiling, whether that's smooth, knockdown, or an '80s stipple. For full breakdown of what we fix overhead — water stains, plaster, sagging, bathroom ceilings, see Raleigh ceiling repair.

• Sagging and water-damaged ceiling drywall replaced
• Seam cracks and truss uplift fixed so they stay fixed
• Texture matched so the repair disappears in afternoon light
• Full dust containment, your furniture and floors stay clean

Wet drywall doesn't dry back to normal. It stains, sags, crumbles at the edges, and once the paper facing has soaked through, the board is done. Around Raleigh the usual culprits are roof leaks after a summer storm, an upstairs bathroom, or the attic air handler with a clogged condensate line quietly ringing the ceiling below it.

Get the source fixed first, then call us. We remove the compromised board, put a moisture meter on the framing and cavity before anything gets closed, hang new drywall (moisture-resistant where the room calls for it), seal the stain so it can't ghost through fresh paint, and blend the finish. And if opening the wall turns up a job for a plumber or a mold specialist, we stop and show you what we found rather than burying it behind new board.

• Water damaged drywall removal and replacement, walls and ceilings
• Moisture checked with a meter before anything gets closed up
• Stain-blocking primer on every water repair, so rings never bleed through
• Photos and an itemized scope for your insurance claim

This includes room additions, garages, basements, attic conversions, finishing the FROG over the garage, or turning a screened porch into a real sunroom. We check framing before we hang, stagger seams to minimize cracking, screw to code pattern, and use the right board for each room: standard 1/2", 5/8" Type X where fire code calls for it, moisture-resistant in baths and laundry.

We work with your general contractor or directly with you, from a single room to a whole spec home off US-1, and the schedule we quote is the schedule we keep.

• Drywall hanging, taping, and finishing for additions, garages, and basements
• Bonus rooms, FROGs, and attic conversions insulated spaces finished into real living space
• Finished to the level the room needs, garage-grade to Level 5 smooth
• Reliable drywall subcontractor for GCs, builders, and remodelers

Hanging board is labor. Drywall finishing is the craft, and it's what separates a wall that looks seamless from one that shows every joint once the sun hits at an angle. We tape and coat every seam and screw head, feather each coat wider than the last, and sand between passes until there's nothing left to see.

We also take finish-only jobs. If you hung the board yourself, or your GC's finisher isn't around, we'll pick it up from there, including cutting back and redoing bad joints. Not sure how smooth you need it? Our finish level guide explains Level 4 vs. Level 5.

• Drywall taping and mudding to Level 4 or Level 5, sanded between coats
• Finish-only drywall finishing for DIY and contractor-hung board
• Bad seams and cracked joints cut back and re-taped right

If you're done with textured walls, we have the fix. We float thin coats of compound over the old surface, and sand it flat. It's the same Level 5 work we do on ceilings after popcorn removal. Many of our skim-coat calls come right before a listing, because flat walls photograph like a newer house.

One thing to know going in: smooth hides nothing. Every seam and shallow spot shows if the work is rushed, so we build the surface in several passes and hold a light against the wall before we call it finished. Our finish level guide covers when Level 5 is worth it and when Level 4 will do.

• Skim coating over orange peel and knockdown for smooth modern walls
• Wall texture removal, taken to a flat Level 5 finish
• Wallpaper tear-out damage skimmed and made paint-ready

Drywall texturing covers two jobs: applying a fresh texture to new or skim-coated drywall, and matching the texture you already have so a repair disappears. In most of the "bad patch" photos people share with us, the repair itself is fine, but the texture around it gives it away.

We apply and match orange peel, knockdown, skip trowel, and the hand-slapped stipple and crow's foot all over '70s and '80s Raleigh, adjusting mix and technique until a test board blends into what's on your wall today, paint layers and all. Full breakdown in our drywall texture guide below.

• New drywall texturing: knockdown, orange peel, skip trowel, or smooth Level 5
• Wall and ceiling texture matching so patches and additions blend in
• Other contractors' visible patches fixed and blended for good

A drywall repair isn't really done until the wall is painted, and on walls with any sheen, a spot touch-up almost always shows. That's why so many customers ask us to paint the whole room while we're there. Because we can handle the repair and the paint, there's no need to wait on a second contractor.

We paint walls, ceilings, trim, and doors across Raleigh and the Triangle, from a single repaired room to a whole-house repaint before listing. See our full interior painting services for pricing and details.

• Repairs and paint in one visit, with one firm written price
• Stain-blocking primer on water damage, so rings never bleed through
• Walls, ceilings, trim, and doors, one room or the whole house

This is one of our most requested services. Full popcorn removal with dust containment, skim coating, and a smooth or knockdown refinish, backed by our Zero Mess Guarantee.

Everything about it lives on our popcorn ceiling removal page. If your drywall project includes dated ceilings, bundling both means we can give you an even better rate.

• Wet-scrape removal with full dust containment and sealed vents
• Smooth or knockdown finish, your choice

Inside the Beltline, "drywall repair" often turns out to be plaster repair, and they are not the same job. Five Points, Hayes Barton, Oakwood, and Boylan Heights homes have plaster over lath, and a drywall-style patch on plaster almost always cracks back out.

To do this properly, we re-anchor loose plaster to the lath, repair cracks with methods that bridge movement, and make clean transitions to drywall where a section is too far gone to save.

• Plaster crack repair that doesn't reopen next season
• Loose and bulging plaster re-anchored to the lath behind it
• Clean plaster-to-drywall transitions where replacement makes sense

The wall and ceiling between your garage and living space isn't optional drywall, it's a fire-rated assembly, and it's one of the most commonly flagged items on a Raleigh home inspection. Raleigh's new ADU rules have added garage conversions to this list too.

We install 5/8" Type X in the locations code requires and finish the rest of the garage to whatever level you actually need, which for most garages is far less than a living room - this can save you a few hundred dollars on your quote.

• Fire-rated garage drywall installed to pass inspection the first time
• Garage conversion and ADU drywall, hung and finished to spec
• Honest finish-level advice so you don't pay living-room prices for a garage

A finished basement should feel like part of the house, not a storage room with paint. We frame over foundation walls where needed, hang the right board for a below-grade space, and finish it to the same standard as the rooms upstairs.

Material choice matters greatly here. We spec moisture- and mold-resistant board around Raleigh's humidity and crawl-space moisture patterns, not whatever is cheapest at the supply house, because a basement wall that absorbs summer moisture will show it within a couple of years.

• Basement drywall hung and finished over new or existing framing
• Mold-resistant and paperless board where humidity demands it
• Finish levels matched to how you'll actually use the space

We handle office build-outs, retail fit-outs, and apartment and condo unit turns across the Triangle. Commercial work runs on different constraints than a home does, so we plan around occupied units, HOA hours, and tenant schedules, and we restore fire-rated shared walls to spec, since that's what the inspector and the property's insurance both expect to find.

Property managers get the most out of us in batches. We group unit turns into one efficient schedule and price multiple units or suites together, so the per-unit cost drops when you've got more than one on the list.

• Commercial drywall build-outs and tenant improvement work
• Apartment and condo turnover repairs on a schedule that holds
• Multi-unit pricing when there's more than one to do

Many homes here still have original plaster over wood lath, usually with drywall patches added wherever a wall got opened for plumbing or electrical. Plaster hangs on by keys gripping the lath behind it, so when a wall cracks or bulges, the real problem is usually back there, not at the surface. Smear drywall mud into a plaster crack and it will open right back up.

That's why we start by figuring out what's actually in your wall, then adapt the repair method: re-anchoring loose plaster to the lath, movement-tolerant crack repair, or a clean transition to drywall where a section is beyond saving.

• Plaster checked for loose and hollow spots before we quote, so the price covers the real repair
• Cracks re-anchored to the lath instead of surface-filled, so they don't reopen next season
• No historic-district paperwork needed: Raleigh's review covers exteriors, and interior wall work is exempt

These neighborhoods are drywall-era, but the original sheetrock is thinner than today's board and turns brittle around old nail locations, so a careless patch can crumble the edge it's anchored to. We've repaired enough of it to know where it gives, and we cut and fasten accordingly.

Before quoting, we also sort out which cracks matter. After 60-plus years of settling, most are cosmetic, and we'll tell you which kind you have, so you're not paying to patch a crack that needed a different fix, or panicking over one that just needed mud.

• Brittle mid-century board patched without crumbling the surrounding wall
• Repairs matched to your existing texture, never left as a flat square

These neighborhoods are standard drywall construction. In this area, we regularly see nail pops working through the paint as framing dries, settling cracks over doors, corner bead loosening in busy hallways, and builder-grade seams from fast production finishing starting to show. In the '90s two-stories, add the winter ceiling-corner crack from truss uplift.

The good news is that predictable problems have proven fixes. We've repaired hundreds of walls in these exact floor plans, so quotes are quick, materials are never a surprise, and the repair methods are ones we've already tested on your neighbors' houses.

• Nail pops secured with screws so they don't work back out
• Truss uplift and settling cracks fixed at the joint, not just refilled
• Old phone-jack, intercom, and cable cutouts closed up invisibly
• Garage fire-wall upgrades for homes built before today's code

This is where most of our new-construction hanging happens: fresh framing, whole-home drywall packages, and finish levels chosen room by room instead of one grade everywhere. Builders and remodelers use us as a drywall sub who reliably delivers on schedule.

We also get calls from homeowners a year or two after closing, when the first heating season has dried the framing and the house announces it: hairline cracks over doorways, nail pops in the hallway, a seam showing upstairs. That first round of settling is normal, and it's a quick, inexpensive fix once the house has finished its initial movement.

• Whole-home and addition hanging, taping, and finishing on a schedule that holds
• First-year settling cracks and nail pops repaired after the builder warranty runs out
• Garage fire-rated separation installed to code from the first sheet
• Multiple lots or spec homes priced together at a better rate

Downtown units are newer construction, but the building changes the job. We're familiar with the logistics: full in-unit containment, floor protection from the loading dock through the elevator to your door, HOA work-hours rules, and debris that has to leave the building the same careful way it came in. We plan all of this upfront, so you don't have to worry about the headaches.

The two calls we get most here: soundproofing a shared wall because you can hear the neighbor's TV, and ceiling repairs after a leak from the unit above. On leak repairs we document everything, since the bill often ends up split between two owners' insurance and the HOA, and clean photos and an itemized scope make that negotiation much shorter.

• Soundproof board and insulation upgrades for shared walls
• Ceiling repairs after upstairs-unit leaks, documented for insurance and HOA claims
• Elevator protection, quiet hours, and debris removal built into every quote
• Walls skimmed smooth for a clean, modern loft finish